September 04, 2010

Havasu Canyon is Heaven on Earth

I've been to paradise.

Many people have been somewhere, and returned to tell their friends and family they've been to paradise, but if they haven't been to Havasu Canyon, they're sadly misinformed.

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There's nothing I can write here that can possibly explain the amazing beauty of Havasu Falls.

From the top of the rim, at the beginning of the hike, you can see the deep, wide canyon that leads to paradise.

Numerous smaller falls and spills litter the space surrounding the larger waterfalls.

Mooney Falls is taller than Niagara.

That's because this Northern Arizonan paradise is hiding in a desert canyon, more than 50 miles away from anything you or I would call civilization, on the Havasupai Indian Reservation. It's too cliche' to call it "the most beautiful place in the world" or "breathtaking." But the truth is- when you leave- and long after your last visit, you'll still hope that when you die, heaven looks like this.

The Journey

Getting there however, is not the picnic you'd hoped for. In fact, in afterlife terms, the trip in and out is more like a place that rhymes with "yell." Our group started off on the journey at a little parking lot at the end of a road in the middle of nowhere. It had been 60 miles since the last stop sign, gas station, or man made structure. Because of the lateness that follows us like a lost puppy on every adventure, we didn't start the hike in until about 1 in the afternoon. It's 10 miles in, beginning with a series of switchbacks that drops almost a thousand feet in the first mile. If you're going to twist an ankle or blow out a knee, it'll probably happen here.

The rest of the way to the village is a long walk down through a canyon wash, the kind of place where flash floods take lives during a light rain. The loose rock and soft sand slows you down, and subtly drains you of whatever energy you thought you had with every step you take. The deeper you walk in the canyon, the higher the red rock rises up on either side.

The first of joyous moments hits you as soon as you see the crystal clear water at the top of Havasu canyon, 7 miles after you've started walking. Take this opportunity to wash the dust and dirt from your face, and then continue down into the canyon.

Joyous moment number two hits when the village of the Havasu Indians appears. A small town of maybe 500 people, and inaccessible by modern transportation, this might be one of the most remote towns in America. The first public building you see is a small convenience store, and you will undoubtedly stop in for a COLD soda and maybe some ice cream. These things that you take for granted have never tasted so good, I promise.

After the excitement of the moment wears off, keep in mind that you still have 2 miles to go until you hit the campgrounds, so get moving again. Pass the supermarket and the cafe, the school and the church. Pass the children playing BASEketball in the dusty unpaved streets. Pass the Post Office, a small brown building (shared with the "supermarket"). As of this writing, it's the ONLY Post Office left in the United States where your mail is transported to and from civilization by pack mules. Then, get out of town, and continue down into the canyon.

Eventually, you'll find yourself walking along Havasu Creek again. That's when things start to get REALLY interesting. As the valley floor gets greener, you descend into a place where you can't help but wonder how this place exists in the desert of Arizona. There are a few waterfalls that are hidden in the woods on the left by the lush foliage, and if the water flow is high enough, they might be worth investigating. If not, continue on, because you're almost there. Your first hint is a sign stating that you will be fined $500 if you jump off of a nearby cliff. As you follow the giant sand covered staircase down, the sound of rushing water is echoed off the 200 feet of vertical rock on the left, tipping you off to secrets hiding around the corner.

Havasu Falls

When Havasu falls comes into view, a weird thing happens. First- an involuntary gasp, like some person trying to drown you let you up for just a tenth of a second. After your mind gets control of your respiratory system again, you start to wonder if your eyes are playing tricks on you.

Is that REALLY a 100-foot waterfall cascading down into a turquoise pool of water, surrounded by red rock walls and lush greenery? Did you fall off of a rock on the way down and bump your head? Was the head wound fatal? Is this heaven? I can't answer any of that, but take it from someone who's been swimming in this water-- it's very real! You'll get close to the edge, closer than you usually would, because every impulse in your head says "Get me as close to the water as you can." You're a moth looking at a light bulb. You're a junkie looking at a fix from across the room. You're powerless.

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	Havasu Canyon is Heaven on Earth I've been to paradise. Many people have been somewhere, and returned to tell their friends and family they've been to paradise, but if they haven't been to Havasu Canyon, they're sadly misinformed. More Photos >> There's nothing I can write here that can possibly explain the amazing beauty of Havasu Falls. From the top of the rim, at the beginning of the hike, you can see the deep, wide canyon that leads to paradise. Numerous smaller falls and spills litter the space surrounding the larger waterfalls. Mooney Falls is taller than Niagara. That's because this Northern Arizonan paradise is hiding in a desert canyon, more than 50 miles away from anything you or I would call civilization, on the Havasupai Indian Reservation. It's too cliche' to call it "the most beautiful place in the world" or "breathtaking." But the truth is- when you leave- and long after your last visit, you'll still hope that when you die, heaven looks like this. The Journey Getting there however, is not the picnic you'd hoped for. In fact, in afterlife terms, the trip in and out is more like a place that rhymes with "yell." Our group started off on the journey at a little parking lot at the end of a road in the middle of nowhere. It had been 60 miles since the last stop sign, gas station, or man made structure. Because of the lateness that follows us like a lost puppy on every adventure, we didn't start the hike in until about 1 in the afternoon. It's 10 miles in, beginning with a series of switchbacks that drops almost a thousand feet in the first mile. If you're going to twist an ankle or blow out a knee, it'll probably happen here. The rest of the way to the village is a long walk down through a canyon wash, the kind of place where flash floods take lives during a light rain. The loose rock and soft sand slows you down, and subtly drains you of whatever energy you thought you had with every step you take. The deeper you walk in the canyon, the higher the red rock rises up on either side. The first of joyous moments hits you as soon as you see the crystal clear water at the top of Havasu canyon, 7 miles after you've started walking. Take this opportunity to wash the dust and dirt from your face, and then continue down into the canyon. Joyous moment number two hits when the village of the Havasu Indians appears. A small town of maybe 500 people, and inaccessible by modern transportation, this might be one of the most remote towns in America. The first public building you see is a small convenience store, and you will undoubtedly stop in for a COLD soda and maybe some ice cream. These things that you take for granted have never tasted so good, I promise. After the excitement of the moment wears off, keep in mind that you still have 2 miles to go until you hit the campgrounds, so get moving again. Pass the supermarket and the cafe, the school and the church. Pass the children playing BASEketball in the dusty unpaved streets. Pass the Post Office, a small brown building (shared with the "supermarket"). As of this writing, it's the ONLY Post Office left in the United States where your mail is transported to and from civilization by pack mules. Then, get out of town, and continue down into the canyon. Eventually, you'll find yourself walking along Havasu Creek again. That's when things start to get REALLY interesting. As the valley floor gets greener, you descend into a place where you can't help but wonder how this place exists in the desert of Arizona. There are a few waterfalls that are hidden in the woods on the left by the lush foliage, and if the water flow is high enough, they might be worth investigating. If not, continue on, because you're almost there. Your first hint is a sign stating that you will be fined $500 if you jump off of a nearby cliff. As you follow the giant sand covered staircase down, the sound of rushing water is echoed off the 200 feet of vertical rock on the left, tipping you off to secrets hiding around the corner. Havasu Falls When Havasu falls comes into view, a weird thing happens. First- an involuntary gasp, like some person trying to drown you let you up for just a tenth of a second. After your mind gets control of your respiratory system again, you start to wonder if your eyes are playing tricks on you. Is that REALLY a 100-foot waterfall cascading down into a turquoise pool of water, surrounded by red rock walls and lush greenery? Did you fall off of a rock on the way down and bump your head? Was the head wound fatal? Is this heaven? I can't answer any of that, but take it from someone who's been swimming in this water-- it's very real! You'll get close to the edge, closer than you usually would, because every impulse in your head says "Get me as close to the water as you can." You're a moth looking at a light bulb. You're a junkie looking at a fix from across the room. You're powerless. 1 \| 2 \| Continue >>